Oil & Grease Removal

Engine oil on parking bays, diesel in service yards, food grease outside kitchens. Oil soaks into porous surfaces rather than sitting on them — which is why jetting alone usually makes the stain bigger, not smaller.

Oil is the contaminant that most often gets made worse by a well-intentioned clean. It's the instinctive response — point a pressure washer at the dark patch — and it's precisely wrong. Water and oil don't mix, so the jet doesn't lift the oil; it drives it sideways and deeper. You end up with a larger, paler stain and the satisfaction of having done something.

Removing oil properly means changing its chemistry first so that it can be carried away by water. That's what a degreaser does, and it needs time on the surface to work. The rinse is the last step, not the method.

Why it goes in rather than sitting on top

Concrete, block paving and unsealed masonry are porous, and oil is thin and persistent. A leak drips onto the same spot day after day, and each drop wicks a little further into the pore structure. After a couple of years the contamination can be several millimetres deep, and what you see on the surface is the smallest part of it.

That's why oil stains reappear. A surface clean lifts what's on the face, the slab looks good for a fortnight, and then oil held deeper migrates back up and the patch returns. Nothing has failed — the clean simply never reached most of the contamination.

Tarmac is a special case and a worse one. Bitumen is itself a petroleum product, so engine oil doesn't just sit in the surface, it dissolves the binder. Long-standing oil patches on tarmac often feel slightly soft, and the material around them deteriorates and ravels. That damage isn't a cleaning problem at all.

Fix the leak before paying for the clean. Cleaning under a vehicle that drips daily is money spent on a stain that will be back within weeks — and on a site with recurring spillage, a drip tray in the problem bay costs almost nothing by comparison.

How we actually remove it

For anything that has been soaking in for years, the poultice is the step that does the real work. An absorbent paste carrying a solvent is applied thickly and left; as it dries it pulls moisture and dissolved oil upwards out of the slab. Two or three applications on a bad patch is normal. It's slow, but it's the only approach that removes contamination rather than redistributing it.

  • Identify the oil — engine oil, diesel, hydraulic fluid and cooking grease respond to different products
  • Apply an appropriate degreaser and give it real dwell time to emulsify the oil
  • Agitate mechanically so the product reaches into the surface texture
  • Hot rinse — heat matters far more than pressure with grease
  • Poultice for deep contamination, drawing oil back out over hours or days
  • Contain and dispose of run-off correctly — this is oily water, not grey water

Oil-stained car park, yard or bin area?

We degrease and clean hard surfaces across Greater Manchester and Cheshire, with run-off handled properly. Tell us how long the staining has been there.

Cleaning oil produces oily water, and where that goes matters. Most car parks and yards drain to surface water systems that discharge to a watercourse — and around Greater Manchester a great many of those discharge into the canal network or the Irwell and Mersey catchments. Allowing contaminated run-off into them is a pollution offence, and it's the site operator who tends to be on the receiving end of the enquiry.

So before we start we establish which gullies are foul and which are surface water, whether there's an interceptor and whether it's been maintained. Depending on the answer we bund, mat, divert or vacuum-recover, and on sensitive sites we capture the water entirely for proper disposal.

It's the part of the job that quotes most often omit, and it's worth asking any contractor about — including us.

Kitchen and bin store grease

A different flavour of the same problem, and a common one on retail, hospitality and multi-site estates. Grease around a bin store or a kitchen extract is a hygiene issue as much as an appearance one — it attracts vermin, it smells, and it's exactly what an environmental health visit picks up on.

This work is usually alkaline degreaser, hot water and a sanitising treatment afterwards, done frequently rather than thoroughly-once. Grease near a food premises accumulates fast, so a monthly or quarterly cycle keeps it under control far more effectively than an annual deep clean, and it's much less disruptive to the business.

Because these areas are usually enclosed and near food, product choice and rinsing discipline matter. Our multi-site retail and hospitality clients typically have this on a standing cycle across their estate.

What to expect

Fresh spills come out fully. Contamination that's a few months old comes out well. Years-old staining in porous concrete improves dramatically but may keep a shadow, because some of the oil has gone deeper than any poultice will reach.

Where a single bay is severely contaminated, replacing a handful of paving blocks can genuinely be cheaper than repeated treatment, and we'll say so rather than quoting three visits. On tarmac that has softened, the honest answer is a localised repair rather than a clean.

We'd rather set that out at survey than have a client expect a slab that looks new. Most oil work delivers a very obvious improvement; complete erasure of a decade-old stain sometimes isn't available at any price.

How To Recognise It

What it looks like

  • Dark patches concentrated in regular parking bays and delivery positions
  • Rainbow sheen visible on the surface after rain
  • Greasy dark build-up around bin stores, kitchen extracts and back-of-house doors
  • Softened, deteriorating tarmac where oil has broken the binder down

What causes it

Dealing with the cause is what stops it coming back.

  • Vehicle leaks in car parks, loading bays and service yards
  • Refuelling, plant and delivery activity on industrial and retail sites
  • Cooking oil and food waste around commercial kitchens and bin areas
  • Porous, unsealed concrete and block paving that absorbs it readily

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does pressure washing not remove oil stains?

Because oil and water don't mix. The jet drives the oil sideways and deeper into the surface rather than lifting it, which is why the stain often ends up larger and paler afterwards. Oil has to be emulsified with a degreaser first, given time to work, and only then rinsed — ideally with hot water, since heat matters more than pressure with grease.

Can old oil stains be removed from concrete?

Usually improved dramatically, sometimes removed completely. Recent contamination comes out with degreasing. Years-old staining has migrated deep into the slab and needs a drawing poultice over one or more applications, and very long-standing patches may keep a shadow. We'll give you a realistic expectation after seeing it.

What happens to the dirty water?

It's oily water and it can't go into a surface water drain — that's a pollution offence. We establish the site's drainage before starting and then bund, mat, divert or vacuum-recover as needed, capturing the water entirely on sensitive sites. It's part of the quote rather than an afterthought.

Can you clean oil off tarmac?

Surface oil, yes — a degreaser and a cold rinse make a real difference. What can't be undone is the damage where oil has dissolved the bitumen binder, which is why long-standing oil patches on tarmac feel soft and continue to deteriorate. Those bays usually need a localised repair rather than another clean.

Areas We Cover

We deal with oil & grease across Manchester, Greater Manchester and Cheshire, including:

Need graffiti gone — fast?

Call 0161 399 5247 or request a free quote. We respond within one working hour.